White Cliffs of Dover are a famous, picturesque site in the south-east of England. These chalk cliffs offer an abundance of walking routes, all with great views of the English Channel. I’ve had a chance to visit the White Cliffs of Dover a couple of times in the past, but each of those times I only had a few hours to spend there – not enough to explore a large area. So, I decided it was time to schedule a day trip to Dover, to properly find out what it’s got to offer. The day was incredibly foggy and I didn’t get the greatest views, but I still enjoyed the serene landscape of the cliffs, and ended up doing a long hike. Here’s how that day trip went, with lots of photos!
Getting to Dover from London
There are fast, direct trains from London to Dover. You can catch a southeastern service from London St Pancras International, or – like I did – from Stratford International. The journey took about an hour. If you prefer to drive, there’s a large car park near the Visitor Centre by the White Cliffs of Dover.
Getting to the White Cliffs of Dover
The famous cliffs are on the east side of the city. From Dover Priory train station, it took me around 30 minutes to walk through the city centre and get to the start of the walking paths.
The Visitor Centre
Conveniently, there’s a Visitor Centre near the start of the walking paths. There are toilets there, but also a cafe/restaurant, and a souvenir shop, with lots of cute and unique items.
I had prior bad experiences at the cafe, unfortunately, which I feel like I need to mention. Once, I got there in the afternoon (after checking the opening hours online) to find a sign on the door saying that the cafe would be closing early. The other time, I got there a few hours (!) before the closing time, just to find out that the place is open, but the kitchen has closed already. And, to my surprise, I saw the same sign again – it seems to be a permanent fixture. So, if you’re visiting the White Cliffs of Dover, I recommend not banking on being able to eat something at the Visitor Centre. It opens early and stays open until late, and the menu looks great. But sadly, you can only get proper food there if you visit around midday. Most serious hikers are far out in the countryside at that time! If you visit outside of the kitchen times, you can grab a pastry, pre-made sandwiches or bags of crisps. And on busy days – like summer weekends – all food sells out fairly early.
This time, I grabbed a coffee at the Visitor Centre, and continued with my hike.
Exploring the White Cliffs of Dover
What I like most about hikes like this one is that you don’t need a plan. You can show up at the start of the walking trails, and then just follow the path, picking your turns at the crossroads based on which direction looks best to you at the time. There are plenty of paths on the White Cliffs of Dover. When I hike on the coastline, I typically choose the paths nearest to the cliff edge, to enjoy the best views. This time, however, there wasn’t much of a view anyway, due to dense fog.
The trails on the White Cliffs of Dover are pretty flat, but if you fancy a bit of a climb, there are sections where you can choose to follow a path that descends and then ascends back to the top. Don’t expect many opportunities for incline walking, but you can raise your heart rate in a few places.
Landmarks of White Cliffs of Dover
There are a few notable landmarks on the White Cliffs of Dover. One of them is the 19th century South Foreland Lighthouse. I believe the lighthouse and the tea room were both closed during my visit, but the toilets located in a separate building were open. What a treat! I always appreciate clean, proper toilets near hiking trails. Especially free! In the summer, you can take a guided tour of the lighthouse, or enjoy a cup of tea in a grandma-style decorated tearoom.
Another curious place near the White Cliffs is Langdon beach, located at the foot of the cliffs. It’s only accessible at low tide – the sea level in Dover goes from the minimum to the maximum every 6 hours. You can check the times online.
There’s a very steep, narrow, rocky path leading to the beach from the top of the cliffs. I missed it this time (there aren’t many signs near the paths), but I’ve seen it in the past. It was a little scary, to be honest! What I did see this time, from far away, was the final section of that path – a tall, metal ladder leading down to the beach. Honestly, getting to that beach isn’t a peaceful, easy walk for the faint-hearted.
Small English coastal villages
Something I really like about walking along the English coastline is seeing the houses on top of the cliffs, with incredible views. I always wonder who lives there and what brought people to living in such incredible yet remote places.
I followed the coastline and found yet another Visitor Centre, this time in St Margaret’s Bay. It’s essentially a small cafe, and it was pretty busy at the time of my visit. I didn’t fancy a sit-down meal and just grabbed a takeaway coffee. Just around the corner, I reached a small beach with a row of colourful beach huts. I decided to walk down to the sea level to have a quick look at the beach. Then, I climbed back up and continued the hike.
The hike continues…
I didn’t have a definite plan for my hike. I just walked and enjoyed the foggy views and peaceful surroundings. There weren’t many people around – I mainly saw local dog walkers, and an occasional hiker here and there. There’s something beautiful about winter hikes. Even though the weather conditions were rough – mainly due to the strong wind – it was extremely relaxing and liberating. For me, it’s the best kind of therapy!
Wildlife of the countryside
Countryside walks are a great opportunity for city beasts, like myself, to see a variety of animals. From cows and sheep, to elusive wildlife. This time, I saw a hare (or its bum, as it was running into a bush before I had a chance to take a photo). On one of my previous winter hikes, I had a unique opportunity to see a bird of prey, a kestrel, up close. I always make sure to look around in search for wildlife.
Heading back
If I was a millionaire with unlimited money and spare time, I would love to walk along the whole English coastline. Not in one go, obviously, but I’d love to do it bit by bit. I’m nowhere near that level of freedom, but I am trying to slowly cover the south-east part of English coastline. I’ve already walked from Folkestone to Dover several times, I walked from Ramsgate to Margate too, and did long walks near Hastings, Brighton, and Deal. This time, I walked from Dover to Kingsdown. I was tempted to continue my hike to Deal, to connect it with a section of the coastline that I had walked before. However, as the days are still short, I had to turn back to make sure I return to Dover before sunset and catch my train back home.
Dover city centre
After turning back, I essentially followed the same route to return to the first Visitor Centre at the start of the White Cliffs of Dover. Then, I walked down to the city centre, having a little bit of extra time before my train. From a distance, I saw Dover Castle on its hill – blurred out, because of the fog. I had previously visited Dover Castle, and I loved it. It’s a great destination for a day out, I highly recommend it.
I also went to Dover harbour / marina, and walked on Dover Pier. I always wonder why the water in Dover harbour is so beautifully turquoise. It looks pretty, but seems a bit unnatural! Especially given the industrial surroundings – I’d expect the water to be dirty and polluted. How odd!
Summary of the hike
Overall, from when I left Dover Priory train station to when I returned to the same spot in the afternoon, my hike was just under 30 kilometres. I ended up walking along the platform whilst waiting for the train to hit the 30km mark, just so it looked better on my smartwatch 🙂 The whole walk took me 7 hours 31 minutes. It included 630 metres of elevation gain – not bad for a route that was mainly flat!
Final thoughts
Overall, I had a great time on my hike on the White Cliffs of Dover. Whilst I personally prefer the less famous route west of Dover (between Folkestone and Dover), I enjoyed the serene vibes of the foggy, cold day. I find it relaxing to walk around without a purpose, listening to the sounds of nature. I think I prefer winter hikes over the summer ones, despite generally preferring hot weather over cold. The hiking trails are empty off-season, and you can enjoy the views without having to listen to human noise – a great way to reset from a city life!
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